No matter what rangefinder you use, theres a good chance that you’ll need to have the rangefinder calibrated one time or another. This is no big deal if you’re aware that the problem can happen (often as a result of bumping or dropping the camera)
Some cameras will need adjustment more than others, and the Voigtlander Bessa range seem to be more prone to rangefinder misalignment than others (this can be said for the Epson RD aswell, which is basically a digital Bessa).
Alot of older cameras have a pretty simple adjustment process, and theres quite alot of info on the net documenting the process. However the Bessa range are still pretty new, and at first it seems as though the whole adjustment process is a guarded secret. Naturaly, many Bessa owners werent too keen on paying a full service fee for a 5 minute RF alignment, so they begun to search for ways to do it themselves.

Theres alot of info floating around the internet on this subject, but i noticed they either didint come with pictures, or the descriptions were missing simple steps. I’ve tried to bring all of the relevant info together in one place and write some instructions based off my own personal experience. This process was completed on a Bessa R3, however i’m told most of the Bessa range is very similar.
*Disclaimer. It’s recommended you ignore these instructions and get your Bessa calibrated by a registered Voigtlander technician if :

• You dont have experience pulling apart and fixing cameras,
• You’re not confident with small tools,
• You’re clumsy,
• You dont take responsibility for your own actions and will want to blame your broken camera on me!

1. First of all, to calibrate the rangefinder you wont necessarily need to take the entire top plate off. It is possible to remove part of the hot shoe that will give you access to the adjustment screws. This can be a tricky process particularly if you dont want to scratch the black pain on your hot shoe. You’ll need a small flat head screwdriver or a toothpick to wedge and pop/lift up the cover plate illustrated in the photo below.

When you lift the edge up enough, the cover will pop up and you can slide it out in the direction of the arrow above. It’s important to have patience with this step, as it’s really easy to get frustrated and be a little too forceful. You dont want to break or scratch anything.
2. When you get the cover off, you’ll see the bracket held on with 4 screws shows in the image below

Taking these screws off should be pretty simple, they werent on too tight with my camera. You’ll need a size #00 phillips head screwdriver for this.
3. Now that you have the bracket off you’ll be able to access the adjustment screws. I could only get a photo of one, but i’ve show where the others are using blue circles. The screws are numbered from 1 to 3 for reference purposes.

You’ll need a long flat head screwdriver to adjust these screws. Also, you may need to remove any “loctite” or similar residue around the screws that prevent you from turning them.
The adjustment process
Below is a description of what each screw does. Quite often you’ll only need to adjust one of these so dont freak out.

Screw 1: Rangefinder patch focus adjustment
Screw 2: Horizontal (left/right) adjustment for Infinity focus
Screw 3: Vertical (up/down) adjustment
*There is a 4th screw also, but to access it you need to remove the entire top plate. It calibrates the base length but you’ll probably need to adjust it. (pray you dont)

Now we can start calibration. Once your camera is adjusted at infinity focus, everything should be fine for close focus aswell, but check just incase. My camera needed horizontal adjustment, yours might need vertical (or both). Find a place to set your camera up on a tripod where you have clear vision to something you can focus on for infinity (make sure its atleast 5 blocks away, its better to be safe than sorry). Adjusting horizontal alignment wont affect vertical alignment, so dont worry.

RF Patch Focus: If you’re rangefinder patch isnt sharp than you’ll need to calibrate it also. Doing this first will make the other steps easier. Also, i’ve heard that adjusting this screw can sometimes move the horizontal alignment aswell, keep that in mind. Turn screw#1 to calibrate this. You may also want to do this with the Vertical alignment leaving the infinity and close focus adjustments to last. It’s not absolutely necessary though.
Horizontal: Set lens focus to infinity (use a lens you know is accurate), and then point the rf patch at an object in the distance. Adjust screw #2 which will move the patch left to right and stop when its properly aligned. Be very delicate and precise as its quite sensitive.
Vertical: With the lens still focused at infinity, adjust screw#3 which moves the patch up and down. It’s a larger screw and isnt as deep as the others so it might be easier to get to. Once again be very precise.
Close Focus: I’ve never done this adjustment before, so cant speak from experience. Every time i’ve adjusted at infinity the close focus has been fine. To calibrate close focus you’ll need to remove the top plate and access another screw which isnt covered in this guide. However i’ve been told that very small adjustments can be made using screw#1. You should be adjusting your lens at 1m for close focus calibration.

After you’ve adjusted all the screws for calibration you can put something on them like “loctite” that will help prevent misalignment in the future. To reassemble everything you just reverse the disassembly process.
Have fun

I got this little beast a while ago now, but have only got a chance to make a post about it today.
The Canon P (“Populaire”) was made between 1958 and 1961. It’s one of Canon’s last screw mount rangefinders and regarded by many as one of the best looking rangefinders ever produced. All i know is that it works and feels great to use.
They’re were originally made as a base/basic model, but in reality were one of the last truly “bulletproof” cameras produced by Canon, so many are still working as well today as they were over 50 years ago.
Theres not too much to the camera. No light meter, so theres no electrical issues. No fancy features that cause problems. Just a simple, clean looking camera, that works as good as it looks with a smooth film advance, and a satisfying shutter sound. The viewfinder is quite big and very bright with nice clear framelines (maybe mine has been CLA’s recently?).
Why use a camera with no light meter and no features that make life easier? Well, its fun.
Below is a photo of mine with a Jupiter 8 attached i had lying around. The 50mm framelines are particularly well placed in the VF, so i think a 50mm lens will live on the Canon now.
I got this camera for a steal of a price, but they regularly sell for around $100-$150, and at that price i still think they’re great value. If you want a super reliable camera, stripped back on fancy features that will take some of the greatest lenses ever created (Leica Thread Mount), then i cant think of any camera more suitable than the Canon “Populaire”.

Ok, i’ve been cutting back on my camera collecting, but this little gem was going very cheap so i had to buy it. I mean, for less than $20 you cant really go wrong.
Its a Canonet 19 from the mid to early 60’s. Sort of a beefed version of an Olympus trip bit with a faster 45mm f/1.9 lens and manual control. Oh and a funky bottom film advance lever too. I wasnt too confident on the condition as it was really cheap (they’re not worth a great amount anyway), but i was plesantly surprised when i received it today. Aperture and shutter are all working, and even auto mode seems to be going good which means the light meter is ok. Cosmetically its in top condition too. It also came with its original eveready case and yellow filter which look great. But what is even cooler is its original box. I think it looks great with the fancy “Canonet” typeface, and canon logo with colour design etc.
I have a little time off soon, so will put a roll through it and see the results. It looks as though someone changed the light seals not too long ago, so im quietly confident that it’ll work.
Heres a shot of it below. I didnt take it in my light box as i couldnt be bothered setting it up. I just put it infront of a window on white cardboard and put some white paper behind it. You obviously cant get the same lighting control you would with a proper light box, but this is a decent quick/temporary solution.

There are quite alot of options available if you’re looking for a 70’s rangefinder. Some good, some bad, but most pretty interesting in their own particular way. There is one model however that stands out amongst many.. The brilliant Olympus 35-SP.
Built between 1969 and 1976, this compact rangefinder packs in an unrivaled set of features that puts to shame many of even the most modern rangefinders. It’s tack sharp 42mm f/1.7 G.Zuiko lens produces pictures with brilliant colour and contrast. The large bright viewfinder contains parallax error indicators and an accurate rangefinder patch. Then there’s the sophisticated metering system.
The Olympus 35-SP has the distinction of being the first ever 35mm rangefinder with dual metering options. Both centre weighted and spot metering is available to the user, which is quite amazing when you consider its age, and the compact size of the camera. After the SP a spot meter was included on the Leica M5 and CL but they were already beaten to the punch by Olympus, and quite simply just didn’t rival the 6 degree spot that came with the SP. Unlike many other rangefinders from that era, the light metering works in full manual mode also, which is quite useful when shooting in tricky conditions, or if you’re after a specific effect only manual control can produce.
Besides a revolutionary metering system (it truly was, and is still unrivaled to this day), the the Olympus came with a brilliant lens i mentioned briefly earlier on. The 7 element 42mm f/1.7 G.Zuiko is regarded as one of the finest rangefinder lenses ever produced. The Olympus RD (which came after the SP) has a similar lens, but without the 7th correcting element. Don’t let anybody try and tell you that they’re the same lens, because they’re in a completely different league. The lens focuses down to about 2.8ft and has a super smooth focusing action with a convenient lever on the side of the barrel.
All automatic and manual exposure options are contained on the barrel rings, aswell as a timer. After a while you can adjust these without taking your eye from the viewfinder, but it will take a little practice.

So with the SP you get a bright accurate viewfinder, unrivaled metering options, one of the best rangefinder lenses ever produced, all squeezed into a tough and compact body that manages to weigh less that comparable rangefinders of that era… What more do you want??
Oh yes, it comes in black too, and i got one, and its damn cool

(picture taken with my homemade light box)

*EDIT: I just got a Silver one also, check out a picture of them together here

Check out some other info here, and here