Got these the other day for a massive $1.35. Two tanks (a double and a single reel tank), and two reels, with one that is brand new. Atleast some photography gear is still cheap.
I got these for when i start my colour developing, as they should hopefully help me keep a more accurate temperature. All i need to do now is figure out how to load them, might have to sacrifice a roll to pactice =/

Well, that’s a bit dramatic actually..
The other week i got some Fuji Neopan SS (100iso) as it was super cheap, and i’d never heard too much about it. Felt like trying something different. I decided to shoot a test roll this wee as i couldn’t really wait to use it on something special, i just wanted to see what it’d look like. I was half way through the roll when i noticed something wrong. My camera was set at 400 ISO =/
I initially got annoyed with myself, but then thought it’d be a good opportunity to try and push process the film a little (i’d never tried it before). So i shot the rest of the roll and started looking for some recommended development times. To my astonishment there were hardly any… Well, there were dev times for 100ISO, but nothing for 400.. I started looking at times for other developers but found hardly any info at all.. Thinks weren’t looking good.
After hours of searching i thought i’d just give it a go making an “educated guess”… Actually, it was more of a plain old “guess”.
Somehow, it worked. As you’d imagine i was pretty happy about it all. Actually, it produced some of the nicer results i’d got.
Here they are. Fuji Neopan SS developed in Rodinal at 1+50 @ 21C for 18 minutes, pushed to 400 ISO.

I dont know what happened with this shot, but thought it looked kind of interesting anyway..

I’ve started developing my own black and white film recently, so thought i’d post up some info on the process i’ve found.
After doing a bit of research i noticed that there seems to be a huge range of options on what is necessary or not necessary, right way to do things, wrong way to do things, whats better or worse, etc… You know, the usual shit that photographers seem to talk about, such an opinionated bunch
The more i researched, the more i got confused by the multitude of information and options available. I wasnt really getting anywhere so decided to just simplify things and give it a go.

The 3 basic steps to developing negatives are:
Developer
Stop Bath
Fixer

Now there seems to be endless options for each step, all with strengths and weaknesses. I wanted to keep things simple, so thought i’d stick with Rodinal as a developer which is the oldest commercial developer in existence, so i thought there would be alot of info around for it. Next is the stop bath which has another set of options. Many people swear by using a method that doesnt contain any chemicals, i chose to go with an Ilford stop solution instead as it will use less water. Then theres the fixer with another range of options but i kept things simple and went with Ilford again.

After these 3 processes you have a couple more options too. A Hypo-Clearing Agent which cuts down washing time considerably (instead of using 30 minutes you use 7 for example). Then you have other stuff like Photoflo which is the very last step before drying. It will coat the film and help prevent uneven drying and water marks etc. None of these are necessary, but the Hypo bath is a pretty good idea.
After you’ve completed the above steps, all you need to do is hang the film to dry. If you dont have a dedicated dryer, its recommended by many to let the film dry overnight. Its hard waiting that long though, especially when its your first roll!

Here are a few links which give some more info on the development process :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vu0Ul_wsYO8
http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwfilmdev.html
http://www.darkroomsource.net/tech-bw-film.shtml

Here is a link to a site with a huge amount of specific development times and formulas :
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

Below is a picture of my gear at the moment. In addition to this i have a dust proof folder to store negatives in, plus 3 more measuring jugs.

In the photo you can see the chemicals, the developing tank (with 2 reels inside), the changing bag, thermometer, film clips, measuring syringe, cylinder measuring graduate, and a $2 shop clock.
The chemicals are cheap, and everything else is reused, so after the inital purchase the only things you’re spending money on is the film. At the moment i’m using the Rodinal at 1:50 for 13 minutes for 100ISO film, so at 6ml per roll, the 500ml bottle will last ages.